Yasukuni+Shrine

=Yasukuni Shrine=

Reflections:
I thought that the sources I was able to find prepared me well for what I experienced. I'm glad I had an appreciation of how important this site is to many Japanese before traveling there. The reports I read about the Yushukan were absolutely accurate. Only about a third of the displays had English translations and I was left wondering what interpretations I was missing. Seeing the invasion of China in the 1930's referred to as the "China Incident" left many of my fellow participants as well as myself shaking our heads. I only wish there had been more time to fully appreciate the point of view the museum espoused.

One personal observation: outside the Yushukan, when Dr. Leavell was giving his well balanced explanation of the Japanese reasons for initiating hostilities in World War II, I was watching the reactions of our tour guide Keiko. It was painful for her to listen to and the emotions playing across her face were quite clear. Seeing her discomfort, and witnessing the veterans group as well as the World War II reenactors encapsulated the incredible complexities of this site in the brief time we were there. All the research in the world doesn't convey emotional impact and I am grateful for the opportunity to have experienced Yasukuni first hand.

Yasukuni is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the kami (spirits) of soldiers and others who died fighting on behalf of the Emperor of Japan. It was originally created in 1869 to honor soldiers who fought in a civil war to bring the Emperor Meiji to power in 1868. Since that time, its Symbolic Registry of Divinities lists the names of over 2,466,000 men and women whose lives were dedicated to the service of Imperial Japan. The shrine is not a cemetery, but is believed to house the kami or spirits of those honored there. It is not a government institution, and has been privately funded since 1946.

Yasakuni Shrine has been a major source of controversy, particularly between Japan, China and the two Koreas. The immediate conflict revolves around the spirits of 14 men convicted as Class A war criminals, including Hideki Tojo, who were registered in the shrine in 1978. The Chinese and Korean governments assert that this homage means that Japan has failed to atone for its aggression during World War II. Visits to the shrine by former Prime Minister Koizumi in the early 2000's only added fuel to the fire. Every year around August 15, the day that Japan commemorates the end of World War II, debate swirls over the appropriateness of Japanese politicians paying homage at the shrine.

The decision of the Prime Minister to visit Yasukuni drew criticism from around the world. In 2005, Chinese Foreign Minister LI Zhaoxing likened Koizumi's visits to German leaders visiting memorials related to Hitler or the Nazis. In 2006, Henry Hyde, chairman of the House Committee of Foreign Affairs stated that Koizumi would embarrass the U.S. Congress and offend World War II veterans if he were to give a Congressional speech after making another visit to Yasukuni. No Japanese Emperor has visited the shrine since 1978, though imperial emissaries visit annually.

However, politician's visits to the shrine have the support of over 50% of Japanese polled. As one conservative put it, "Yasukuni tells us what it means to be Japanese and it reminds us of our values." Other Japanese see the criticism as a political ploy. A retired executive explained, "We Japanese will never back down to that type of Chinese or Korean pressure."

Yasukuni Shrine also operates a war museum of the history of Japan called the Yushukan. Foreign visitors are often disturbed to find tributes to kamikaze pilots and displays of Japanese World War II weaponry, uniforms and battle flags. Some observers have criticized this museum for presenting a revisionist interpretation of history. Japan's pre-WW II conquest of East Asia is portrayed as an effort to save the region from western colonial advances. The museum also fails to portray any atrocities committed by the Japanese Imperial Army. Many of the travelers reports I have read seemed to relate a feeling of uneasiness in their visits there and the fact that English translations of the displays were not very enlightening. Judge for yourself what information is forthcoming and what may await you by visiting the website for the shrine at[| www.yasukuni.or.jp/english/] The only hint that the shrine may be a source of controversy comes in the section labeled 'to reporters and photographers.' You may want to familiarize yourself with the restrictions before taking out your camera.

Personally, I believe this may be one of the most interesting stops on our tour. However, this is one of those occasions where I plan to take Dr. Leavell's advice most seriously and practice my southern manners by listening politely to what our Japanese tour guides have to say and save any penetrating questions for the good professors later. I found myself comparing this controversy over and over again to our own debates over how Confederate history should be memorialized. Understand that any position you take or any question you ask could easily offend one group or another.